Touring the Peninsula With Matt

Ciudad Rodrigo

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We entered the great fortifications through what was, and still is, the Salamanca Gate.

This fortified town was another stop in our great trek across northern Spain and Wellington's battlefields and it was of utmost importance that Wellington captured this fortified town, as it was one of the two great fortresses that barred the two great roads that led into the centre of Portugal.

If Wellington did not capture both of these fortresses then one or both of these roads would have given open passage into Portugal and on to Lisbon for one of Napoleon's Spanish Armies, and, more importantly, would not give him an open passageway to Spain.

As we drove in through the gate we wound left through the town until we came past the great cathedral and parked just opposite it.

Getting out of the car we headed for the cathedral, found it was locked for two hours, and so decided to go for a walk around the walls of the town.

Climbing up you saw what a commanding view the fortress had on the countryside and as we gazed out you could see where the British gun batteries were placed during the bombardment of the town, even though there were very few viewable remains of their positions. Walking along we came to the Little Breach, which was assaulted by Vandeleur's Brigade of the Light Division.

It had long been filled in, but it was quite easy to see where it had collapsed - and how truly small it was.

Behind us we noticed that on the walls and the bell tower of the cathedral were roundshot marks and large chippings off the gargoyles that lined the tower.

Walking along further we came to the Great Breach, which McKinnon's Brigade of the 3rd Division assaulted, it was slightly larger than the Little Breach (as would be expected, judging by its name), and was marked by a plaque commemorating the storming, but was still, however, surprisingly small.

As we turned along the western side of the wall we were heading towards seemingly marshy River Agueda, with its small islands that caused eddies and rapids along its path.

We walked along the western ramparts to where Campbell's Brigade of the 3rd Division was ordered to launch feint escalades on the flank of the great breach, and along the southern end of the fortress walls to divide attention from the breaches.

This was one of the three feint attacks to be launched by Wellington 10 minutes before the main attack would begin, and as we headed further down the western wall towards the River Agueda, we came to the joint part of the first attack.

This was the place where the 2/5th were sent around the western side of the castle, and ordered to set their ladders against the redoubt and scramble over the wall.

Walking further along we came to where Colonel O'Toole's Brigade came charging over the old Roman Bridge and silenced the two guns under the castle.

Meeting with the 2/5th here, they both escaladed the walls, and entered the fortress virtually undetected. Colonel O'Toole's attack was the second of the feint attacks.

Walking along the southern edge of the fortress we passed the castle and then came around the eastern half of the stronghold. Following this route we came to the San Pelayo gate.

Brigadier-General Pack's Portuguese battalions were ordered to attack this gate, and this was the 3rd and final feint attack on the fortress, launched from the east, and to begin, a signal rocket would launch the assaults.

Overall the assault was a complete success, however, unsurprisingly, the British did lose casualties, as is the way of war. They suffered a high death toll of just under 600, two of whom were major-generals, and one of which was Robert Crauford, the great and invaluable commander of the outposts.

Walking around we came back to the Salamanca Gate, and after spending a few hours wandering round this fortress town, we went back to the car and headed out across the plains of central Spain as we continued our odyssey (Yee-ha!).

- Matt Mahabadi

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